We connected with Amuro in the Mentawais — she was already wearing SEPTEMBER.
Fast forward a year, and she’s now spending time perfecting her surfing skills, in Hawaii. Long sessions in the water, island routines, and the kind of focus you only get when surfing is your life. 🔥
What does a great day in Hawaii look like for you right now?
A good day for me starts with waking up early, doing stretching and meditation, and then heading to the ocean. After that, I have a simple breakfast. Even if it rains a little, when I see a rainbow, it feels like a perfect day.
When do you usually get in the water?
It depends on the waves, but on good days at Pipeline I can spend up to 8 hours in the ocean. Usually, I surf about two hours in the morning and two hours in the afternoon.
What’s something about surf life people don’t always see?
Surfing big waves with men atthe same spots. Everyone is a professional and very good at catching waves, so it’s really hard to find and get my own waves in that crowd.
What does your routine look like on a non-surf day?
Even on non-surf days, I still wake up early and do stretching and meditation. After that, I usually do some training.
Writing in my journal every day helps me slow down and feel grounded.
What’s something simple you always make time for?
Writing in my journal every day. I write about things that made me happy and things I’m grateful for. Doing that before sleeping makes me feel really calm and good.
What’s been inspiring you lately, in or out of the water?
Nature and simple daily life. I’m also inspired by people who value what they love and keep going without losing themselves.
One word that sums up this season
Gratitude. Because I feel thankful for being able to surf, for my health, for the people who support me, and for being able to spend my days in the ocean. I want to remember this feeling every day.
Follow her surf-stories @amurotsuzuki
